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Post by genesis273 on Aug 17, 2018 13:51:22 GMT -5
Would you use a 1/4" impact or a 1/2" drill to sink the deck screws. 3" screws into decking with #2 Phillips bit.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2018 13:56:04 GMT -5
I would use the 1/4" impact since there is a lot of screws. A lot lighter and plenty powerful for the 3" screws.
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Post by treetop on Aug 17, 2018 14:18:38 GMT -5
Cordless is the way I’d go
But I’d use the 1/4 over 1/2 it may snap screws or strip out
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Post by featherduster on Aug 17, 2018 14:44:10 GMT -5
Either will do.
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Post by scrub-buster on Aug 17, 2018 16:12:10 GMT -5
I would use Torx deck screws. Phillips can strip out easier.
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Post by whitetaildave24 on Aug 17, 2018 16:22:18 GMT -5
I would use Torx deck screws. Phillips can strip out easier. Yep. That’s what I did on our deck we built earlier this year. |
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Post by beermaker on Aug 17, 2018 16:25:20 GMT -5
Impact is the only way to drive a screw, period.
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Post by nfalls116 on Aug 17, 2018 16:58:18 GMT -5
1/4” impact and I would use Phillips only if all other choices were exhausted
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Post by jjas on Aug 17, 2018 17:10:32 GMT -5
You not only run the risk of stripping phillips head screws going in, but if you have to remove them @ some point, I can almost guarantee you that you will strip those phillips heads coming out...
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Post by genesis273 on Aug 17, 2018 20:35:46 GMT -5
I already have 25lbs of the Phillip's so I'm stuck there. Impact it is. Thanks folks You not only run the risk of stripping phillips head screws going in, but if you have to remove them @ some point, I can almost guarantee you that you will strip those phillips heads coming out... |
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Post by esshup on Aug 18, 2018 9:39:20 GMT -5
I'm never using coated deck screws again for any deck that is going to see rain/snow. I did a deck 12 years ago using treated wood, and torx head coated deck screws. They have rusted so bad that they are leaving rust stains in the wood around the screws, and if I try to take them out they snap off anywhere from 1/4" to 3/4" below the head.
Stainless square drive for me from now on.
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Post by Russ Koon on Aug 18, 2018 10:04:15 GMT -5
Ditto that!
Haven't priced them lately, but I'd reconsider how "locked in" I was on the screw choice, if at all possible. IMO, the purchase of the 26# only makes it an even bigger mistake if you let it "force" you into using them on the deck. They may be a good choice for other projects, but IMO square drive and stainless are the two most valuable lessons I took from building my deck and a dock, a generation or so ago.
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Post by steiny on Aug 18, 2018 12:14:03 GMT -5
I hate the Torx head and square head type deck screws, much prefer Phillips head.
The galvanized Torx and square head type seem like they always get a little booger of coating in the hole on about every third screw, making it tough to insert the bit. Phillips heads work great if you don't try to go too fast and keep a good bit in your drill. Wouldn't waste the money on stainless fasteners unless I was doing a "fake wood" Trex type, expensive deck.
Don't discount nailing down your deck with galvanized spiral nails either. Much cheaper and they are still working just fine in my 20 year old wood deck.
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Post by jimstc on Aug 18, 2018 14:41:21 GMT -5
I would use Torx deck screws. Phillips can strip out easier. Ditto. I used Grip Rite #305 stainless steel . They are expensive but so is my time to re do something I should have done right the first time. These are 2.5" x 10. Five pounds are around $60. T-25 star drive. Type 17 point. You will not regret the decision. Lifetime guarantee against rust for whatever that is worth |
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Post by beermaker on Aug 18, 2018 17:46:29 GMT -5
I am currently in the process of building a new house and getting my current one ready to sell. I have three decks on my current house and have spent God only knows how much time over the last 15 years cleaning, staining, replacing boards, etc. NEVER again! When I was young and dumber than I currently am, I thought a deck was a must for cooking out, drinking beer, relaxing, etc. Nope, just a big pain in the a#$.
I work for a developer and had first choice of whatever lot I wanted in the new section of the neighborhood. I purposely chose a non-walkout lot. I'll pour a nice concrete patio and screen part of it. Done. Not a treated board on the property other than wall plates in the basement and garage.
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Post by 36fan on Aug 18, 2018 20:25:53 GMT -5
I would use the impact to drive #2 square drive screws, and and a small drill bit in the drill to predrill the screw holes on the end of the boards to keep the boards from splitting.
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Post by genesis273 on Aug 18, 2018 20:34:00 GMT -5
I would use the impact to drive #2 square drive screws, and and a small drill bit in the drill to predrill the screw holes on the end of the boards to keep the boards from splitting. Great idea! Thanks |
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Post by genesis273 on Aug 20, 2018 13:15:55 GMT -5
Started the deck today. (Friday actually since that's when I tore the old one out). Got the ledger board and ledger flashing up before the rain hit. Looks like it's about to clear up so now it's time to Mark and set post
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Post by genesis273 on Aug 20, 2018 19:25:54 GMT -5
Post are set thanks to the help of my beautiful wife! We finished a little while ago. First time using fast set concrete. Weather permitting, I may actually finish tomorrow. Decking anyhow, may not get the rails done.
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Post by treetop on Aug 21, 2018 10:15:02 GMT -5
www.camofasteners.com/edge-fastening-systemThis is what I used on my deck but it only works with 5/4 wood so far after 3 years I have not had a board come lose the screws are a bit pricey but it’s a clean look and you don’t split wood as you do when screwing or nailing the face
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