Source(s) for 358 Hoosier dies

[art338wm]

Now that Indiana is not going to allow most HP rifles, would like to buy a rifle in 358 Hoosier (used or new) and and plan on doing all my own reloading so I'm going to need some dies and brass. Am trying to keep costs down, so who makes the most affordable brass and two die sets, if such  affordable animals exists.

Thanks, 
Arthur.

[HuntMeister]

There may be others but, Hornady Custom Shop is the only source that I am aware of. I believe I spent around $150.00 for the set I bought 2 years ago. There was a wait of 3-4 months back then.
This is probably the main reason I went with the Hoosier over other wildcats, sizing brass is sooo simple!
If you get 358 winchester or 308 winchester brass, you can simply cut down that brass to 1.8" and then run it thru the sizing die and then another trim to whatever final length you want to get it properly sized for the Hoosier chamber. Stay away from military 308 brass, typically the brass walls are too thick and will not chamber.

[HuntMeister]

Did you see the stickied post on sources by cedarthicket?

[drs]

If you form .358 Hoosier from .358 or .308 brass; you'll need to inside ream the neck of your formed cases. Whenever you shorten a case and move the shoulder back, your case neck is thicker & could cause high pressure issues. I've made .308 brass from .30-06 cases, and inside neck reaming was necessary to avoid high pressure. Also annealing the neck is a good Idea after fire forming, to avoid split necks. Fire form with light loads too.

[oldhoyt]

I make my hoosier brass from 358 Win and have no issues with neck thickness. I have heard of some having trouble with certain 308 brass.

Also, I believe there is a reamer for use with the problem brass. AJ Brown in Bloomfield will have the info on this.

[omegahunter]

Guess I have been lucky that all the R-P, Hornady, and Winchester brass that I have ever converted to Hoosier have not had necks too thick. Only thing I had any issues with was with some military brass when I started out. Now I just don't use anything but commercial brass. I have done well over 1500 pieces in the last couple years.


.358 Win to Hoosier is the easiest as there is no necking up to do. I just feels like you are resizing any other cartridge. On .308 to Hoosier I will chamfer the inside and outside of the neck slightly after cutting off to rough length. Then use Hornady spray lube to give a slight shot of lube to the inside of the necks. It greatly reduces the effort to expand the neck on my ancient Rock Chucker press. After sizing they go to the tumbler to clean off the RCBS case lube from the outside and Hornady lube from the inside before getting their final trim.

A Harbor Freight cutoff saw with homemade length jig speeds up the process getting the brass down to 1.8" to begin with.

[drs]

I currently own a Remington Model 722, which I had it re-bored, back in 1976, for the .458 X 2" AMERICAN cartridge.  When I formed cases for it, using R.C.B.S. case forming & reloading dies; I trim .458 or 300 Winchester brass to 2" and must "inside ream" the cases regardless of which parent case I use, in order to produce ammo for my rifle.  If I fail to ream the cases, they will become crushed when I seat a bullet.  I guess you fellows forming .358 Hoosier ammunition don't have this issue of neck reaming though.  I normally neck ream all my cases, after the third firing, for all the calibers of rifles from .22 Hornet, .222 Rem., .25-20, .270, and .308 rifles, including my .458 X 2", etc.  I do this mainly for accuracy, which has worked well for me.  All reloaders should have an inside neck reamer on their reloading table, for desirable accuracy.