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Post by scrub-buster on Jan 24, 2024 18:37:05 GMT -5
I've got a question for you mechanical minded guys. I'm looking at these 2 tire sizes for my work car. Top number is stock. Would that be enough of a difference to matter much?
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Post by greghopper on Jan 24, 2024 18:58:05 GMT -5
It depends on what clearance you have now…. That looks to be the tire width number
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Post by bowonlykindofguy1 on Jan 24, 2024 19:30:23 GMT -5
Tire circumference is the key, will affect transmission shift points and speedometer.
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Post by esshup on Jan 25, 2024 7:10:55 GMT -5
You will have 1.5 percent drop in fuel economy, and almost a 5 percent drop in traction. And your speedometer will read 1.5 percent faster. So, it's up to you on what is too "much".
Depending on how long you plan on keeping the vehicle, and how many miles you drive, in 100,000 miles that would be like driving an extra 1,500 miles when it comes to maintenance. Extra gas, extra wear and tear on the rotating bits and pieces, etc., etc.
For tire numbers you have to put your metric system hat on.
Take tire #1. 225 is the tire width in centimeters. 55 is the height of the sidewall expressed in the percentage of the tire width. 17 is the rim diameter.
A 225/65/17 would have the same width and tread contact with the ground, it would ride a wee bit softer because of the taller sidewall (providing you kept the same air pressure in the tires) and the tire would be taller because the sidewall is 65 percent of the tire width instead of 55 percent. It would have less revolutions per mile due to it being taller.
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Post by omegahunter on Jan 25, 2024 8:35:22 GMT -5
You will have 1.5 percent drop in fuel economy, and almost a 5 percent drop in traction. And your speedometer will read 1.5 percent faster. So, it's up to you on what is too "much". Depending on how long you plan on keeping the vehicle, and how many miles you drive, in 100,000 miles that would be like driving an extra 1,500 miles when it comes to maintenance. Extra gas, extra wear and tear on the rotating bits and pieces, etc., etc. For tire numbers you have to put your metric system hat on. Take tire #1. 225 is the tire width in centimeters. 55 is the height of the sidewall expressed in the percentage of the tire width. 17 is the rim diameter. A 225/65/17 would have the same width and tread contact with the ground, it would ride a wee bit softer because of the taller sidewall (providing you kept the same air pressure in the tires) and the tire would be taller because the sidewall is 65 percent of the tire width instead of 55 percent. It would have less revolutions per mile due to it being taller. Fuel economy will suffer by going to a smaller tire? Or perceived economy will suffer because it will register more miles than he has actually driven?
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Post by lawrencecountyhunter on Jan 25, 2024 10:36:09 GMT -5
Practically speaking, there will be no real difference. Your speedo may be off by 1-2 mph.
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Post by greghopper on Jan 25, 2024 11:03:39 GMT -5
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Post by oldhoyt on Jan 25, 2024 11:13:11 GMT -5
For those that don't know, here's what the numbers in tire size mean. For example, size 225/55/R17.
The 225 is the tread width in milimeters, about 8.9 inches. So the 215 size is one centimeter narrower than the 225 size.
55 is the aspect ratio, meaning the height of the sidewall as a percent of the tread width. In this case the sidewall height would about 124 milimeters, or about 4.9 inches.
17 is the wheel size (diameter) in inches.
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Post by greghopper on Jan 25, 2024 11:18:14 GMT -5
For those that don't know, here's what the numbers in tire size mean. For example, size 225/55/R17. The 225 is the tread width in milimeters, about 8.9 inches. So the 215 size is one centimeter narrower than the 225 size. 55 is the aspect ratio, meaning the height of the sidewall as a percent of the tread width. In this case the sidewall height would about 124 milimeters, or about 4.9 inches. 17 is the wheel size (diameter) in inches. The tire code is a series of letters and numbers that specify the size, load index, speed rating, and type of tire your vehicle requires.
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Post by swilk on Jan 25, 2024 14:08:03 GMT -5
Throw in that some tires run true to size, some run a little bigger, some a little smaller.
Unless you are talking a decent chunk of money difference, I personally would go back with whatever size it had to begin with. There are some exceptions to that .... for example, back in the early 2000's GM HD trucks came with a 245 sized tire and I always thought it looked goofy so changed mine out to a 265.
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Post by esshup on Jan 25, 2024 19:18:40 GMT -5
If he is going the same actual MPH, then he is turning more RPM and there will be less mpg. Will that manifest itself over a tank? Probably not. But like I said, if it's over a 100,000 mile period, then it's the same as if he turned the revolutions of 101,500 miles (at the flywheel). Do you get those 1,500 miles for free? I think not.
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Post by greghopper on Jan 25, 2024 19:43:56 GMT -5
Almost like splitting hairs …..like buying different octane of gas at different gas stations!
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Post by scrub-buster on Jan 26, 2024 19:50:11 GMT -5
Thanks guys. This car has 248,000 miles. We just paid $1700 for repairs after the ball joint failed and the wheel basically fell off. We are trying to make it last at least until summer. I'm trying to find a low cost set of used tires to keep it on the road.
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Post by esshup on Jan 26, 2024 23:05:43 GMT -5
Thanks guys. This car has 248,000 miles. We just paid $1700 for repairs after the ball joint failed and the wheel basically fell off. We are trying to make it last at least until summer. I'm trying to find a low cost set of used tires to keep it on the road. FWIW, if you expect to drive in snow between now and then, the minimum tread depth for snow is 5/32"
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Post by scrub-buster on Jan 27, 2024 7:10:28 GMT -5
Thanks guys. This car has 248,000 miles. We just paid $1700 for repairs after the ball joint failed and the wheel basically fell off. We are trying to make it last at least until summer. I'm trying to find a low cost set of used tires to keep it on the road. FWIW, if you expect to drive in snow between now and then, the minimum tread depth for snow is 5/32" I have a suburban for driving in the snow. It doesn't have any heat. I'm trying to fix that problem. I hope it's just the blower motor resistor.
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Post by greghopper on Jan 27, 2024 7:15:44 GMT -5
FWIW, if you expect to drive in snow between now and then, the minimum tread depth for snow is 5/32" I have a suburban for driving in the snow. It doesn't have any heat. I'm trying to fix that problem. I hope it's just the blower motor resistor. Check the blower motor also… It could be drawing to much of a load and making the resistor go out BTDT
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Post by scrub-buster on Jan 27, 2024 12:29:46 GMT -5
I have a suburban for driving in the snow. It doesn't have any heat. I'm trying to fix that problem. I hope it's just the blower motor resistor. Check the blower motor also… It could be drawing to much of a load and making the resistor go out BTDT I will. Last week it only worked on the highest fan setting. Now none of them work.
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